A Sewist Obsessed...

Chalk this Simplicity 4079 up to lessons learned about interfacing

2011-12-17T21:16:00.000-05:00

This lesson hurt. I bought this herringbone wool from Canadian vendor Wool House when Sewing Expo came to Atlanta in 2010. I waited a year to cut into it, and finally decided that it would make a nice addition to my work wardrobe as a dressy vest, especially since silk tie blouses are in this year. I have even made this vest before, but I made it from a tapestry fabric where interfacing wasn't an issue.

So hopefully by photographing it here, you will retain a mental picture of my mistake and why you shouldn't skip interfacing with wool herringbone. I did interface the front flaps, which is all the pattern called for. But the fabric needs something sturdier under it to keep from looking frumpy.

The biggest mistake was using flannel on the back to line the rayon lining. When I made the vest before, the tapestry on the front and sides hung heavier than the lining and made the vest hitch forward. This time, I added a layer of lightweight flannel to the lining, thinking the back would be heavier and balance out the garment. But this time, the back was heavier than the front, and the place it really shows is the pointed corners at the vent where the side joins the back.

So the lesson learned is this: the front, side, and back pieces' weights should pull at the seams evenly. If they are not interfaced in a way that balances their weights out, the difference shows up in a wavy seam.

Lesson learned: Removing water spots from rayon lining

2011-09-18T12:40:00.000-04:00

Water spots on rayon vest lining

I promised to use this blog to document the hiccups I come across while sewing, so here is the latest lesson learned. As I was pressing my rayon vest lining, the iron spit out steam on the rayon and spotted it. I looked around on the internet and several sources suggested steaming it. I tried that, but the spots remained. I finally wet down the whole lining and pressed it with a dry iron on the synthetic setting and the water spots are no longer visible.


No water spots!

Hey Threads Magazine! Just saying...

2011-09-16T16:06:00.001-04:00

Favorite thing #1

Favorite thing #2

Experimenting with fabric dyes

2011-08-01T20:05:00.000-04:00

I really don't like to shop retail anymore, but I'm not quite fast enough to turn out a whole season's wardrobe in my spare time and it would be as hard to find all the right fabrics as it is to find all the right cuts in ready-to-wear. So I was pretty excited about an article that was in In Style magazine this summer, explaining how easy it was to breathe new life into old clothes by dyeing them another shade. There are several things hanging in my closet underutilized because they are an odd shade, so I decided to give it a try. I used Rit dyes available from JoAnn's. There is a custom color chart on their website that gives the recipe for a desired color. I chose a burnt orange, which was 1 t Tangerine, 1 t Sunshine Orange, and 1/2 t Cocoa Brown.

Blouse after dyeing

Blouse before dyeing

The first garment that came to mind was a wrinkle resistant blouse from Coldwater Creek that had always been too peachy to match anything. I wanted a little more burnt orange to match a skirt I had made. It was wrinkle resistant, so it probably has some sort of coating on the fiber to resist wrinkles and I wasn't sure it would take the dye. But it was 100% cotton, so I thought I'd give it a try. Even though I doubled the dye, it did not take the dye the way the tee did. I made sure to heat the water to 140 degrees, doubled the amount of dye I used, and soaked for 30 minutes, hoping for a much deeper orange. It did darken the shirt up a little, but the color is a little uneven, so I do not recommend using dyes on wrinkle-free shirts, even if they are 100% cotton.

Tee after dyeing

Tee before dyeing

The second thing was a mauve tee that I never wear, but would probably work into my fall weekends if it was also burnt orange. It took the dye really well and was true to the shade I was mixing for. The only problem was that the dye is a little uneven on the right side front. I stirred the shirt in the dye bath with a spoon consistently, but I recommend unfurling it and submerging it again throughout the bath to make sure the color takes evenly.

All in all, it is really easy to do and it doesn't have to be messy. The directions explained a stove-top method and specified no non-stick for heating the dyes, so I used a bucket in my double sink. But the color takes better if the water is heated, so I used my non-stick pot to heat the water to 140 degrees and poured it in the bucket.

The first step is to use the color remover. I used one packet for the bucket and let it soak for 30 minutes. I stirred with a wooden spoon frequently to avoid creases. During the 30 minutes, I heated up additional water and poured it in the sink around the bucket to keep the solution warm without diluting it.
After 30 minutes, you rinse with hot water, then with warm water, and then you are ready to dye to your color.

I measured out the colors and mixed them with 2 cups of water in a stainless steel bowl. I also ran hot tap water in the bucket and dissolved 1 cup of salt and 1 tbsp of detergent. Once that is setup, you add the colors to the bucket. Soak the garment for 30 minutes, stirring to distribute the dye. After 30 minutes, rinse in hot water, then warm water until the dye runs clear. It took about 10 rinses to get clear water.

So that's it! Easy, right? I can't wait to experiment with more dyeing techniques.

Simplicity 2497 finished.

2010-12-09T20:43:00.000-05:00

Well, here it is. I love this dress, but I will never, never, NEVER go on a trip with the intention of finishing the dress on the way. I had to leave for Phoenix a week before the party and decided I would insert the pockets, the zipper, tack on the ruffle, and close up the side seams BY HAND in the hotel in the evenings after work. I must have been nuts. But I must say, this pattern is really well suited for a nice professional cocktail dress because the pockets are just great for parties where you are standing, talking and aren't sure where to put your hands. It's a dress that doesn't require shape wear to pull off that is all right with me! I'm sure I will make it again in a number of variations. I recommend hand tacking on the ruffle instead of sewing it by machine because it is much more floral that way. I also recommend drafting a facing (I think Threads Magazine has a tutorial on how to do this) so that you have a clean edge on the arm hole edge.

And, as always, I have a lesson to relate, having learned it the hard way. I reasoned that since I was mounting rhinestones on the waistband that the facing should be adhered to the outward facing waistband as opposed to the facing. As a result, it looks a little bit home made in that area. My advice is to adhere the interfacing to the facing (inside) so that the visible side will be crisp at the edges where it attaches to the gathering.

So get out there ladies and start sewing for those New Year's bashes!

Simplicity 2497

2010-12-09T20:26:00.000-05:00

I can't believe it is so hard to find a dress that covers my shoulders in Atlanta this holiday season. I'm trying to find a festive, but professional dress to wear to my company Christmas party in Phoenix in early December. I looked everywhere to no avail. So I decided to give this Simplicity pattern a try. I could simply extend the shoulder line and it should fit the bill. My local JoAnns had it made up in the store and it looked nice.

I only had 2 weeks to make the dress and since I sew in my spare time, that is really not a lot of time for me. But I decided that there's no use in learning to sew if I'm not going to trust myself to deliver. So I went down to Gail's Fabrics and bought a beautiful green silk to make the dress with. I even went for about 20 Swarovski crystals to liven up the waistband.

I made a couple of adjustments to the patterns to make it work for me. First, I raised the neckline about an inch and a half
and drafted the shoulder to extend out probably about 2 inches (simply extend the shoulder seam and blend the armscye from about the bustline. I usually do a bust cup adjustment, but the gathered waist in this dress makes it still fit ok without it. I sewed the gatherings and the ruffle by hand and I would do it again -- I think it looks a little better that way. I also made a facing for the front and back so I didn't have to bind the armholes.

As for putting on the crystals -- I realized after I bought mine that the hot fix ones are better. A lady at Gail's explained to me that you can just put them on a griddle until they bubble and mount them easily with tweezers. Without the hot fix crystals, you have to squeeze craft glue onto the back of each crystal and it was kind of nerve racking. As for the way I laid them out, I think the boundary of the design has to be symmetrical, but the placement inside that design can be fairly random. That's what I did anyway.

Drafting my own back darts, part 4

2010-07-05T12:03:00.000-04:00

Here are the finished darts. I hand-basted the darts before sewing them by machine. Still a lot of fitting problems to sort out, but the darts seem symmetrical anyway. The dart seams are somewhat puckered and I think that is because I should probably be using a much smaller stitch length when sewing curves. But I am still ripping out a lot and small stitch lengths are torturous when you do that, so for now, I can live with this.

Next up: stitching the side vents.

Drafting my own back darts, part 3

2010-07-05T11:56:00.000-04:00

So now it's time to connect the darts and that is where the fashion ruler comes in to play. You can ensure uniform darts by finding an area along the curve that connects your dart marking points. Once you find the right curve, mark the placement points on the ruler, flip the ruler face down, and use those same points to mark the other dart's mirror image. Do this for each leg of the dart. Be sure to measure each dart leg separately if you have shifted any of the darts sideways to make a curved dart.

Drafting my own back darts, part 2

2010-07-05T11:51:00.000-04:00

It seems like the top of the dart is best placed at the upper bust. Be careful not to confuse this with the lower bust that may have been transferred with the pattern. It seems like the placement markings on the sleeve coincide with the upper bust measurement. The waist is defined in the side seams as the inner-most curve. You'll want the inner-most curve of your dart to match the inner-most curve of the side seam or you will have drag lines, so mark your waist using the inner curve as a reference. The high hip line seems pretty easy to place by just trying on the garment.

The darts are basically centered half way between the center back seam and the side seam. Once you know the center of the dart, mark the dart end points at the high bust and high hip lines. At the waist, divide the dart takeup by 4 (2 darts with 2 sides each) and mark the waist points. For example, if you want to take up 2" at the back waist, you spread that over 2 darts and 2 sides each, which means the dart points will be 1/2" from the dart center at the waist line.

I was studying another blouse and realized that it used curved back darts, and the effect was a flattering hourglass on the back. So I shifted the lower dart end to the side seam by 1/2". In hindsight, I probably should have left the endpoints where they were and shifted the waist markings over by 1/2". I'll try that next time.

Drafting my own back darts

2010-07-05T10:46:00.000-04:00

My current quest is adding back darts to this Burda blouse. An interesting thing happened with this blouse. I made the alterations to the pattern for the bust and hip, but when I tried on the blouse, it was too small in the hip. Even though the measurements were right, the fit was still off. Then I realized that not having waist darts was making the high hip hang lower, which explained the fitting problems.
So I'm off to figure out how to draft the waist darts. Stay tuned for the results in the next post.

A simple cardigan.

2010-02-18T21:09:00.006-05:00

I was determined to find something for this silk jersey that I had picked up traveling to Monterrey California a couple of years ago. I'm not absolutely sure it is not swimsuit fabric, actually. Anyway, I picked up McCalls 5241, a "1 hour cardigan", but the arm hole is so messed up that I just studied the way the center front is extended and made edits to Butterick 0463 T-shirt pattern. Basically, I just extended the center front to 12" square. I used my serger for all consruction and the edges are serged without any hems. Looking back, I might have made it with 3/4 sleeves, but overall I'm pleased with it. I think it makes a nice pattern basic because the vertical lines along the front add height and since it's jersey, it's pretty low maintenance. I think I'll stock up on a couple of prints from Emma One Sock to make a couple of variations of this.

Simplicity 2700

2010-01-24T13:47:00.005-05:00

Just finished this pair of navy linen trousers. Overall, I'm pleased with how they turned out. The pattern comes in slim, regular, and curvy. I altered it to take in the waist and let out the hip. I also added a permanent seamed crease along the front. It turned out nice, but make sure you are absolutely on grain when you do that or your pant will start to turn below the knee.

I have fairly short legs, so I'm wondering if I should have taken the flare out of the leg to add visual length. The waist band is also a little wide for me, but a top will probably hide that most of the time.

I got David Page Coffin's new book, "Making Trousers" and it mentions that the mark of better sewn garments are pockets that hang free of the side seam. That would certainly reduce bulk on the side seam, so I may give that a try next time.

I think the most effective alteration I made was lengthening the crotch seam. It really made a difference in how the pants fit in the rear. The picture shows my altered pants against a pair of Banana Republic pants I've had for a while. My alterations are definitely a step in the right direction, but apparently my right leg is bigger than my left because of all the wrinkles on that side. But --- I'm getting there!

Delving into Japanese Pattern Books

2010-01-03T19:43:00.005-05:00

I love, love, LOVE being able to buy all sorts of crafting supplies and books on etsy.com! If you haven't looked around on there, I highly recommend it. I ran across a blogger that lived in NYC and was touting a great independent bookstore there that carried Japanese pattern books and I was bummed because I am no where near NYC. But I eventually found the book on etsy.com from Pomadour24, and it came in a little less than a week straight from Niigata, Japan! There are 21 patterns, all simple lines, and patterns are in large folded sheets (like Burda WOF patterns). The instructions are in Japanese, but if you know how to sew well, you should be able to use the patterns without reading Japanese. The diagrams are really detailed. One thing I hadn't counted on though, was that Japanese patterns are graded for 9, 11, and 13, which I think translates to a size 10 at most! So if you are bigger than a size 10, you also have to grade the pattern to your size. Therefore, this book and it's patterns have landed squarely in my "to-do someday" stack.

If Japanese patterns do interest you and the sizing issue doesn't trouble you, look for an article by Shannon Gifford in Threads Magazine that talked about using European patterns and pattern sources from other countries and languages. There are a number out there, though you may have to order them online to get them:
- Burda World of Fashion out of Germany (I think). English version available.
- Patrones (Spanish, women's wear)
- Ms. Stylebook (Japanese, women's wear).
- Ottobre (Denmark, children's wear). English version available.

Good luck!

Got my classes for Sewing Expo Atlanta!

2010-01-03T16:28:00.005-05:00

It's becoming my new year tradition to sit down and pick out the classes I'm going to take at Sewing Expo. I can't wait until March! I signed up the 5 class package, which I found out is about my limit last year. This year, I'm taking 4 fitting classes from Cynthia Guffey and one class on copying garments from Jim Suzio.

In the past, my favorite classes have been Cynthia Guffey. Her style is very casual - she kind of talks of the top of her head, but she is full of insight and tricks for improving the quality of your sewing. She's the one who taught me about directional sewing -- that the grain changes 6 times at the arm hole, and if you change the direction of your sewing with it, the garment turns out looking much better. She's very diligent about things like straightening the grain, and certain cutting and sewing techniques. Her own samples really drive home her point, too. Her garments are impeccably tailored, and her patterns reflect the French influence from her time in Louisiana.

Last year at the expo, I bought this skirt pattern at Cynthia's booth. The picture doesn't do it justice - it is really beautiful in person. The skirt is made up of several panels sewn together that "cup" at the bottom. I can't comment on the pattern yet, because it requires 4 1/2 yds of fabric (all cut on the bias). I haven't been brazen enough to try a new pattern on that much fine wool or linen until my skills improve. Maybe I'll make a muslin mock up soon and comment on that.

Also, if you are considering any classes at the Sewing Expo, I really liked the Notions one. But beware! You will definitely spend more in the exhibit hall after seeing all the cool gadgets! But on the other hand, I had already walked through the exhibit hall and missed half of the tools because I didn't know what they did.

I'm trying to think of my favorite vendors at the past show. I splurged on a Martelli Brothers rotary cutter and mat a couple of years ago and I would probably grab it in the first handful if the house were on fire. I love it that much! I also love the Vogue Fabric booth and there is a French lace vendor there that has beautiful lace that I only see at the show. I've gotten great deals on big quantities of clear elastic and warp weft interfacing at Unique Patterns. Thread & More is great for thread and sewing notions. I've gotten several pressing notions from Golden Hands over the years that I like.

The brochures haven't arrived in the mail yet, the but the class offerings are posted online. Check it out at: http://www.sewingexpo.com.

Simplicity 2594

2009-12-29T10:37:00.006-05:00

This top had some high expectations to meet. It was the first thing I've sewn with my new Bernina and the fabric was a special one I'd saved in my stash after picking it up at Britex Fabrics on a business trip to San Francisco.

I bought this pattern specifically for the green georgette fabric. It was printed in panels, so I was a little worried whether I would have enough fabric and whether I could balance the print. The pattern has a yoke that lays over the shoulder and the front and back pieces are attached above the chest and across the upper back.

Techniques used:
1. Fitting: I normally do a FBA, but the shirt already has 7" of ease and isn't particularly fitted in the chest. I cut out a size smaller to make it 5" of ease over my body measurements.
2. Cutting: Because the georgette can be slippery, I cut out the pattern pieces with a rotary cutter and mat and laid pattern paper on top to minimize the fabric sliding around.
3. Marking: I like to cut off the seam allowances of of my patterns so I can mark the seam lines easier. Georgette is too flimsy to use stiff chalk or pencils, so I scattered some powder chalk along the pattern edge and rubbed it off the pattern onto the georgette to mark the silouette of the pattern (you could use corn starch if you don't have powder chalk). I was happy to see that it makes a sharp line, but be sure to cut an exact seam allowance because the chalk will disappear once you start handling the garment. By the time I hemmed the garment, the chalk was gone and I couldn't see it at all and I hadn't cut an exact seam allowance.
4. Thread & Needle: I used a 70H Universal needle and Mettler cotton thread. You might want to use a walking foot and lower the presser foot pressure, too, if your machine allows the fabric to slide around a lot.
5. Facings: This pattern has a facing for the yoke, the back collar, and the split front. I found it challenging to get the split to lay down nicely where it joins the front of the garment. I would recommend thread tracing seam lines in that area to make sure that the seams join as accurately as possible. If the seam is twisted at all, it won't lay right. After sewing the facings along the neckline, be sure to clip the curves and then edge stitch the facings to the seam allowances to make the split lay nice and flat. I did not clip enough notches in the neckline seam allowance and so the points curl back. Also, I serged the edges of the facings and it makes a rough edge that is uncomfortable to wear. I suggest turning the facing's raw edge down and sewing with a straight stitch to make it more wearable.
6. Gathering: The back piece is gathered between two notches. I cut a piece of clear elastic the length of the notched area on the shorter piece (the yoke) and then stretched it as I sewed it into the back piece. It was easy and came out nice and even (see back picture).
7. Hemming: And this is where it went south. I tried out the new rolled hem foot on my machine and it just didn't work out. The fabric did not feed into the foot well where you sew across joined seam lines. Also, I stretched the fabric while sewing, so it has that wavy look. In hindsight, I probably should have done the hems before I closed the side seams so I could do them flat. It was virtually impossible to sew in the round without stretching the fabric out.

Comments on the pattern:
1. I think this pattern is really great in a georgette, but I would make it a size smaller than normal. Five inches of ease seemed about right when all was said and done.
2. I didn't find any drafting errors once I decided to work with the smaller size pattern, but the front split is a little low once you wear the garment. I had to be careful not flash people when I was leaning over. I'd close it up about 1" next time.
3. I'm definitely going to try the pattern again. It is great for summer tops and as a staple under cardigans or jackets. It also has a lot of potential if you look at Anthropologie.com for embellishment ideas. I might play with lace inserts or some hand embroidery next time.

Summary of lessons learned:
1. Do the rolled hems on sleeves and bottom before closing up the side seam.
2. Thread trace the seam allowances where the split front is joined for better accuracy and a flatter seam.
2. Clip the curves on the neckline facings before edgestitching the facings to the seam allowances to make the curve lie flatter.
3. Straight stitch the raw edge of the facings instead of serging them.
4. Might want to close the front split up about 1".

I have a Bernina!!

2009-11-23T20:01:00.007-05:00

I still can't believe it! My mother-in-law is an antique broker and ran across this sewing machine at an estate sale. The guy said it needed a part, but otherwise it ran fine. I did some research on the internet and it is a Bernina 830 Electronic, a great machine that people really seem to seek out and the only thing that ever went wrong with them was the foot pedal. So I took it over to the people at Atlanta Sewing and they fixed it and it runs like a champ! My mother-in-law rocks!

I haven't posted any pictures in a while because I've been doing pattern alterations on pants pattern Simplicity 2700. I made up a pair of the pants in denim, but I was hemming them and got the bright idea that I could create a level hem by tearing the fabric. I suppose that still would have worked if the back of the pants hadn't been off grain. My tear spiraled up the back leg way past the hem line.

So now I'm on to Simplicity 2594. I have some great fabric from Britex Fabrics that I got on a business trip several years ago and I need a simple pattern to dress it up. In fact, I'm going to sign off now and start looking into that. Happy sewing!

Silk Lotus Flower - Threads

2009-08-25T13:51:00.001-04:00

Silk Lotus Flower - Threads

Posted using ShareThis

McCall's 9407 Baby gowns

2009-08-16T11:20:00.007-04:00

Finished this baby gift today. I actually made two -- the first one was a mock-up, but turned out OK. This is a well-drafted pattern, though it runs a little big. I'd estimate it has an extra 5/8" in the seam allowances from running true to size. The instructions are easy to follow and the pattern is much easier if you have access to a serger. I have 3 changes to recommend:

1. Do the sleeve cuffs first (so you can sew them flat), then close up the sides in one machine run, from foot to cuff.

2. Serge along the bottom edge of the neck facing and the both sides before attaching it to the body of the garment. The instructions don't point this out and it is much harder if you have attached it.

3. Take the time to topstitch along the shoulder seams, the cuffs, the neckline and the bottom. It looks much more finished and will make the garment wash better.

The garment is made out of 100% pima cotton that I got in Athens Georgia at a shop called "Sew Berry Special." The shop specializes in sewing for kids and is a good source of pima cotton.

Exploring Boston's fabric store

2009-07-30T15:15:00.004-04:00

That's right, I said exploring Boston's fabric store, singular. This is Winmill Fabrics just outside of Downtown Crossing, and the lady at the desk confirmed that it is the only apparel fabric store left in Boston. The picture is lousy, but I was trying to stand in the street to get a shot with my camera phone.

The shop is on the edge of Chinatown and I think the closest subway stop is Downtown Crossing.

They have a lot of fabric and it is hanging so that it is easy to browse. My local fabric store has stacks of bolts that make it a physical struggle to get the bolt you want, but everything is hanging neatly at Winmill. There are a fair number of polyesters there, but I did see a nice wool herringbone, though the finer fabrics are limited here. I don't remember seeing a whole lot of silks.

There is a big selection of vintage patterns, but I don't remember them being organized in any particular way. I purchased some horsehair canvas while I was there because I usually have to order that from the internet.

Make sure you use the restroom before you go because there are no public facilities at the shop.

2009-07-29T20:56:00.002-04:00

Burda World of Fashion, June 2007, style #120

Fabric: medium weight linen from Fashion Fabrics Club

Pros: The cut is stylish and I especially like that it is cut on the bias. The bias-cut plaid is really figure-flattering. The arm holes seem to be drafted pretty well and there is no gaping there.

Cons: The neckline is too low to wear without a camisole, but that is pretty consistent with Burda.

Lessons learned:

1. Don't forget to finish the edges of the bodice facings before you attach them to the front side pieces.

2. Normally, edge stitching an attached facing piece usually makes for a crisp edge, and I did that on the top edge of the tie. But it makes the other seam on the tie (on the loose ends) hang a little crooked. Sew both seams of the tie ends, then edge stitch after that.

3. Don't forget to add length back into the bodice if you use the "slash-and-spread" method to adjust the bust.

4. It works pretty well to run a straight stitch along the hem line and then use that line as a guide to trim the excess off with a serger. That makes it pretty easy to make a double-fold hem that hangs nice and even.

5. I used 1" seam allowances and that seemed to work well with the bias cut.

Dud in NewLook 6754

2009-03-17T17:54:00.002-04:00

Pattern Description:
Woven summer tops
Pattern Sizing:
10-22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
No, that's where I'm disappointed in the pattern. The drawing looks like a thin cowl neck, but mine doesn't look like a cowl neck at all.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, for the most part.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The shoulder seams don't match on this pattern and the cowl neck is about 4 inches to short. The other views have drafting errors, too, from what I remember from a PatternReview review on this.
Fabric Used:
Lightweight muslin.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't make any. I usually have to do a FBCA, but the darts along the neckline seem to accommodate larger bustlines OK.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This one won't make it past the muslin stage. The neckline just looks too wonky.
Conclusion:
I'd pass on this pattern, mostly due to drafting errors and I don't think it was ever quality tested.

BWOF 06-2007-112

2009-03-12T09:36:00.006-04:00

Pattern Description: Burda World of Fashion 07-2007, style #112. Cap sleeve blouse with asymmetric front placket.

Pattern Sizing: 6-18

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing? I think so.

Were the instructions easy to follow? This pattern is the sewing lesson for the month. You can find it at the end of the newsprint pages, where all the pattern instructions are. However, it tells you to hem placket before you hem the shirt, and I think that makes it more complicated, just save the hem for the last step.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I think the asymmetric front is unique and kind of slimming and the cap sleeves are more comfortable since they don't go all the way around. I might use that sleeve on other blouses. I also like the BWOF patterns don't include seam allowances. It makes it much easier to mark the seamline with chalk and it seems like things are better lined up with you join the big pieces.

Fabric Used: Polyester linen. I prefer natural fiber linens, but I didn't realize this was poly until I started using it. But it has bronze undertones that catch the light at different angles, so I still like it a lot. It creases well, and that made it easier to work with, but be careful not to trim seam allowances too close to the seam or it will unravel and you will lose your seam (that's what happened on my collar). I found some bronze buttons to bring out the bronze undertones.

Alterations or design changes: I enlarged the bust and that makes the assymetric plackets bow out a little. Just make sure that you lay the 2 front pieces over each other to make sure the plackets are identical on both sides after you slash open the bust line.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I think this pattern will be a staple for me. I'm already thinking of making it again with a gathered ruffle along the placket and around the neckline (collar and collar stand left off).

Conclusion: I think this is a great pattern.

Vogue 1025 finished

2009-02-28T17:32:00.011-05:00

Well, it's done. My first lined dress is behind me. Unfortunately, I wouldn't call it a success. On the dress form, I think the dress came out really well in the front. The back is another matter. The fabric is a stretchy sateen, and that seemed to make the fabric pucker more. If I had to venture a guess, I probably should have loosened the tension to insert a zipper into sateen. Anyone have a suggestion?

I have to think it was the fabric/tension combination because I practiced the zipper insertion on muslin before I worked with the sateen and it came out fine.

I pinned the vent flap flat on the table and I probably should have pinned it hanging on the dress form. I think that would have avoided the wrinkles that show there.
The biggest disappointment is that, while the dress fits the form, it doesn't fit me. I'm not sure why, because I used my own measurements, so it is really confusing. That means more tweaking of the dress form and another round of edits on the sloper.

But I believe in always ending on a positive note, so let me remind myself what I did right:

1. I did master lining the dress, and I think the hot pink lining is a nice element that catches the eye when you happen to see it in the armscye or in the skirt vent.
2. I am getting better at getting the seams of separate constructed pieces to line up properly. The waist seam was that way, and so were the shoulder seams.
3. I am getting the shoulder seams eased in correctly the first time around.
4. The hem hangs straight.
5. I did not have to rip out any seams due to sewing a piece in wrong-side out.

So when you think about it, I did more things right than I did wrong. Maybe I'm getting the hang of this sewing thing after all. I probably couldn't convince Tim Gunn of that, but at least I've started convincing myself.

Scroll system to keep fabric off the floor

2009-02-22T23:30:00.006-05:00

I'm still working on the dress, but I wanted to take a minute to show off what my best-ever husband rigged up on my cutting table. I needed to preshrink a lot of lining fabric and I didn't want it to get wrinkled as I worked through it. We got some iron rods, wrapped them in masking tape (to keep the fabric clean), loaded a cardboard fabric tube on the rod, and mounted it on the legs of the table. The other side of the table has another rod loaded with a fabric tube. I can steam the fabric on the table and load it directly onto the tube. It works great! The fasteners are bolted, but we're going to change them to hooks next week for easier loading of the tube. Anyway, just thought I'd share because I was really pleased with it.

Project Runway Canada

2009-02-21T07:44:00.004-05:00

Thanks to Erica Bunker's blog, I found out last night that Canada has a version of Project Runway available on YouTube. In fact, it's into it's second season now. Here is a list of episodes in order.

I was disappointed in Project Runway Australia, and I've heard the British version is lacking, too. But Canada's talent seems kind of edgy and it makes for an interesting cast of characters. Iman is stunningly beautiful at every angle. I'm excited to see what happens.

But the rest of the episodes will have to wait, because today I plan to cut the lining for Vogue 1025 and finish this dress!

Taken out by anticipation

2009-02-19T21:15:00.008-05:00

It's been 3 weeks and 2 failed attempts, but I finally got some lining to finish this dress. I ordered lining from two sources on the internet, only to have my money refunded after a week both times because it was out of stock. So I took a long lunch today and drove into town to get this hot pink lining from Gail's Fabrics. I was so excited to get done with work and get into my sewing room that I realized I was too pooped to do anything once I got there. So maybe this weekend.

While I was waiting on the lining to come, I did get some alterations worked out on Burda World of Fashion 06-2007-112. It's a nice short-sleeved blouse with an asymmetric placket. I'm making a mockup to get the alterations made and master the things I haven't done before, including the placket and the binding on the armcye.

My standard alterations are to enlarge the bust and raise the waist. The bust cup adjustment isn't too hard, it just makes the placket "bow out" a little. Just make sure that the plackets are symmetrical when you overlap the front pattern pieces (see below).

The first time I inserted the sleeves, they were way too puckered. So I ripped it out and tried the pin basting method. Basically, you pin each quarter of the sleeve to the armcye and then divide the distance between each pin until you have pins about 1/8" apart all around the sleeve head. Then you sew right up to each pin and remove it as you sew. It takes a little more effort, but it is much more reliable than 2 rows of ease stitching.

Before I move on to the fashion fabric, I'm going to practice binding the sleeves and doing the button holes. But that will have to wait, because tonight I'm out of commission.

What a difference alterations make!

2009-02-01T19:35:00.009-05:00

It's been a while since my last post, but I've been working hard on this muslin and I'm finally finished. This is the first pattern I've really focused on alterations and it really makes all the difference in how satisfied you are with the end result. I can't imagine anyone making this pattern without edits. Here's what I had to do:
1. The waist was about 1" too high, which is weird, because I usually have to shorten the waist about an 1.5 inches.
2. The skirt was about really big. I took each side seam in 7/8".
3. The seam line needs to be trued at the shoulder seam between the front and back bodice.
4. I'm going to raise the v-neck about 1/2" (not shown on the muslin).
5. I'm going to drop the dart point down on the back skirt 2" or more (not shown on the muslin). That's the picture below. I think the rule is that the dart should extend to about 1" away from the fullest point of the rear end. For me, that made the dart a lot longer and made the skirt fit better.

Why do I have safety pins in the back, you ask? I messed up the zipper on the back by trying to sew the fashion fabric and the lining at the same time. That just doesn't work. Your stitches are too close to the zipper. I got so frustrated that I went on a field trip to Max Mara (such beautiful detail) to see what their linings looked like. Their linings are always sewn in a good distance from the zipper. I tried it on a separate piece of scrap fabric and got it figured out. I had to insert the zipper into the fashion fabric, then move the needle to the outside position on the invisible zipper foot, and sew the lining from there. The picture below shows how it turned out.

I also noticed the lining is generally stitched down to the seam allowances, and doesn't show on the fashion fabric. The pattern directions really don't address this either way.

Cold & Icy Weekend = Lots of sewing

2009-01-18T15:43:00.007-05:00

Brrrr!! It's been icy here in Atlanta, but at least I got a lot of sewing done. It took 3 tries at the muslin bodice, but I think I finally got the bust cup adjustment done right.

The pattern is drafted well as far as seam lengths, but the bust to waist length seemed really short (I think a review on PatternReview.com said the same thing). The Vogue sloper has me shorten the waist about a 1 3/4", but on this pattern, I had to lower the waist an inch. Also, the ease in the waist and the hips was about 1 5/8" inch to big for a fitted garment, so I took the skirt side seams in about 7/8" and tapered the bodice side seam in 7/8" at the waist.

I'm going to go ahead an make a lining for the muslin because I haven't lined a dress yet and I want to make my mistakes on the muslin, not the real thing. Unfortunately, I'm out of lining again, and that means another week before I can make a trip into town or order it by mail. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and build up an inventory of Ambience linings in various colors and interfacings in various weights. I bought a bolt of muslin fabric several months ago and I use it pretty regularly. Does anybody else have a personal stock of interfacings and linings? What colors and weights do you try to have on hand at all times?

Muslin fitting on Vogue 1025

2009-01-15T20:14:00.009-05:00

Hi Sewists and Fashionistas! I hope you are making the most of this cold freeze and spending it inspired in your sewing rooms. My latest project is Vogue pattern 1025. I love this dress, but I have several things to figure out before I can use the fabric I picked out for it. For one, I have to figure out how to do a bust cup adjustment and rotate it into the darts at the bottom. In this pattern, too small in the bust shows up in the waistline hitching up at center front. So here's how I went about altering the pattern:

On the front pattern piece, I use the "slash & spread" method, cutting on grain up to the bust point and to a hinge on the side seam. Then you cut from the side seam to just short of the bust point and spread the pieces to add width to the bust. That makes the side seam a little longer, which means you have to alter the back pattern piece.

The slash will probably go right through the darts. The dart markings in my picture aren't really correct. The trick is to mark the new bust point. The dart legs should rotate out from the bust point and the dart logs make up the fold lines of the pleats.

For that, I just clipped under the match point and added enough length to make the side seams even. I got the alterations added to the pattern and cut out the muslin. Here's what it looks like assembled:

Unfortunately, it still seems to hitch up at the center seam, which will make the waist seam hang irregularly. So I'm going to add another inch the bust line. Coming up: attempt number 3 on the bodice fitting.

A History of Unmentionables

2009-01-10T22:51:00.001-05:00

Feb. 1
Ivy Hall Lecture Series Presents "Unmentionables Mentioned: The History of Underwear" by Sarah Collins
Sunday, 3 p.m., Ivy Hall, 179 Ponce de Leon Ave., N.E., Atlanta, Ga.
SCAD-Atlanta Fashion professor Sarah Phillips Collins will examine the different types of underwear worn over the ages and how undergarments have been used to modify body image, sexuality and social issues. Free and open to the public. For more information, call 404.253.3324.

Moving on to Vogue 1025

2009-01-10T19:54:00.004-05:00

I have tried several places all over town to find Vogue pattern #8123 in my size and am finally giving up. I just don't think it was meant to be, so I'm moving on.

My next project is going to be Vogue 1025. The fabric I have in mind is a sateen gabardine (shown above), off-white pebbled dots on a brown background with a little bit of cross-grain stretch. This pattern includes instructions for a lining, so hopefully, that will avoid the fiasco I got into before with the cropped jacket.

White flag surrender on Vogue 8123

2009-01-08T09:24:00.005-05:00

After several days of trying to resurrect this jacket, I have decided to chuck it and focus on a muslin instead. I've learned a lot since I first started this jacket, and there were a couple of mistakes I made when cutting it out that just aren't worth recovering:
1. The pattern fits my full bust measurement. I've since learned that I should buy a size smaller and make a bust cup adjustment. Now that I know that, the size I'm making just doesn't look right.
2. If you look in the detail photo from the last post, you see that I sewed the facing down when I serged along the neckline of the jacket body. That clipped off the seam allowance that I really needed to attach the facing to the undercollar. I suppose I could have a hand-stitched it down, but it was still going to look funky.
3. I was sloppy about cutting the lining and the neckline had stretched wider than the jacket and the bottom was shorter. Furthermore, I had cut the lining as a duplicate of the fashion fabric layout, so there was extra fabric along the facings that needed to be taken out.

Given all those hurdles, I think it's time to write off my losses on the beautiful aqua blue wool and STAMP IT IN MY MEMORY that muslins are well worth the time and effort. So now I'm off to find Vogue 8123 in a smaller size that I can alter in the bust. Next up -- muslin fitting for Vogue 8123.

Next up: tackling UFO Vogue 8123

2009-01-04T18:12:00.007-05:00

Everytime I open my sewing closet, I wince when I see this UFO -- UnFinished Object. I had envisioned Doris Day in the Pajama Game when I picked out the aqua blue herringbone wool. Though the pattern was Very Easy Vogue, I made up my mind that I would add details that I would always be proud of.

And that's where I went wrong. Very Easy Vogue jacket patterns don't have bagged linings, so you have to learn the bagging technique somewhere else. That means the pattern instructions don't stop you from sewing down the facings or hemming the jacket before the lining is inserted. To make things even worse, I used a serger on the edges, so ripping out the seam isn't so easy.

The second thing I was disappointed with was the interfacing and underlining of the jacket. The front facings and collar are interfaced with weft interfacing and the entire jacket is underlined with silk organza. I'm still deciding if I like that on the body and I know it is too flimsy for the collar. I probably should have used collar interfacing on it. I'm really a novice about interfacings, so any comments or guidance would be appreciated.

But there are still a lot of things worth saving about this jacket. I'll probably never find a herringbone wool like this again that I can afford. I already have a lining sewn from black silk chiffon. And finally, I will probably learn more from fixing these mistakes than I would have had I done it completely right from start to finish. So that's what I'm going to do. Here's what has to be fixed:
1. The hem has to be let out of the sleeves and around the bottom of the jacket to allow for the bagged lining technique. For future reference, it would have been better to interface the edges with horse hair canvas before I sewed fronts and backs together. But since it's sewn together now, I'm going to try to get horse hair braid butted up to the fold to make the hem edges stiff.
2. Let out the facing so it can be used to bag the lining.
3. I'll cut out a piece of collar interfacing and slip it in between the layers. Once the undercollar is slipstitched, it should keep it from moving around too much.

Here I go!

Connie Crawford's T-shirt pattern (Butterick 0463)

2009-01-01T16:33:00.008-05:00

Well, *technically* I did start on my resolutions (making fitting alterations to my sewing patterns, but I realized I didn't know whether knit sewing patterns were altered like woven patterns. I've always had to make a bust cup adjustments to my patterns and I wondered if the adjustment would be any different on a knit. Turns out it's not. This is a picture of the muslin I made. It turned out well enough to use as a basic T.

I did my own thing, sewing the shoulder seams first, then setting in the sleeves, hemming the sleeves and body, then sewing up the sides. I changed the neckline a little and did the binding without using the binding pattern piece. I'm pleased with how it turned out.

Another thing I found was out was how to hem knit fabric without a coverstitch matchine. First, I serged the raw edge and then folded the hem up. You sew the hem with a double needle in your regular sewing machine with the right side up. I setup the machine with a double needle (threaded with regular all purpose thread) and wooly nylon in the bobbin. It's not so hard to catch the serged edge in the seam because you feel it through the fabric as you feed it under the needle. The picture shows what it looks like on both sides. I think it looks fine, and I'm relieved to find out that I'm not coveting a coverstitch machine anymore.

Check out my review on the Pattern Review widget on the right.

2009 New Years resolutions

2008-12-30T19:04:00.003-05:00

Well, it's time to think about resolutions for 2009. With grad school behind me, this should be the year that I can really make some strides in sewing. Here's what I would like to accomplish in 2009:

- get all of my existing patterns updated with fitting alterations.
- master interfacing for jackets.
- master jackets overall.
- master working with knits.

I'm hoping that Project Runway will spur a renaissance in sewing over the next year. For too long, fabric and sewing shops have been quietly closing one after another. Maybe this will be the year for a whole new crop of fabric stores in Atlanta!

Good design is not taste, but a matter of skill

2008-11-27T22:05:00.000-05:00

I was reading the Fashion Incubator blog last night and noticed an article that really got me thinking about what it means to be creative. Basically, the blogger makes the point that creativity is a result of skill, not taste. Designers progress through stages of copying good design, experimenting with their own aesthetic, and finally using their experience to decide when to copy and when to add their own uniqueness.

For somebody that still throws away more garments than I finish, I found this advice something worth hearing. In essence, it reminds that all my mistakes are slowly moving me toward my own creativity. While I may still be at the novice level in sewing, I have been working in IT for about 12 years. In that arena, I can relate to the principles of good design outlined by Paul Graham, because I feel more like a journeyperson and less like a novice. Now I just have to figure out how to apply those ideas to my sewing:

http://www.paulgraham.com/taste.html

Long time no post

2008-11-27T21:02:00.001-05:00

It's been almost a year since my last post. This time last year, I started a 12 month journey into writing my master's thesis and I am finally free! As of Monday, November 24, my thesis was accepted and I'm finally graduating! WOOHOO!

I did find some time this summer to sew up these curtains. They are simple pinch pleat draperies with premium drapery lining. I used a 4 inch curtain header and pinch pleat hooks, both found at JoAnn's. Construction was pretty easy. I used directions I found in an old Singer book. I used my Kenmore sewing machine to do all the sewing, although it did have trouble with the tacking on the triple fold pleat.

In hindsight, I'd probably pay closer attention to grain because the inside edges hang a little bit limp. Also, my 48" window is still a little bit too wide to make one fabric width for each panel. Doing the tacking on each pleat messed up the machine and I had to take it to the shop twice, but it turns out that the thread came out of the upper hook and it just needed rethreaded. It is worth noting that the premium lining is still not a blackout lining.

I think I invested about $100 in materials (plus $40 to Sears to repair my machine).

Fabric: Brown sateen gabardine from Snellville Fabric Mart $7/yd.
Thread: All Purpose from JoAnn's
Pattern: None
Equipment/Notions: - drapery header tape
- premium drapery lining
Time invested: about 2 weeks

Just got home from Monterey California

2007-12-15T00:54:00.000-05:00

I get to travel for business about once a month and this month, I went to a conference in Monterey. Normal people would take in the sights, and I did that. But I also scowered the area fabric shops as well. I flew into San Francisco and drove down 1 1/2 hours to Monterey, which means I drove through Santa Cruz and San Jose as well. These are the spots I found:

1. Britex fabrics, Union Square in San Francisco - This shop is absolutely heaven for an apparel sewist. It is in SF's Union Square, right beside Prada and Neiman Marcus. It is 4 floors, the bolts are arranged by type and then further divided by color. The 1st floor is wools, silks, and bridal fabrics. I think the 2nd floor is all notions; the 3rd is cottons, some home dec, organzas, rayon/polys; and the 4th floor is remnants. I think this shop bumps Washington D.C.'s G Street as my favorite. G Street probably has a larger inventory, but the vibe at Britex is so cool -- the place is a buzz with fashion students, home sewers, and designers. Fabrics are at all price points and the staff were just as nice to me as a home sewer and less-than-fashionably dressed tourist as they were the art crowd. Additionally, its location is highly inspirational. SF overall has a vibe of suttle refinement, with a real emphasis on creativity and craftsmanship. I suggest making a day of it in Union Square so you can walk the high-end shops to get inspired before you go to Britex.

2. Crossroad Fabric Outlet, Watkinsville, CA - this shop is about 25 minutes north of Monterey. It is fairly impressive for a small beach town. It is a smaller shop, about the size of a manicure salon, but I found some really high quality knits, silks, and wools there. There was also a wide variety of fleeces there. I had a really tough time finding the autumn colors I like in the inventory, but I'm sure it changes since it is an outlet. Prices are great, I got a knit jersey for $3.99/yd and a Gucci print knit for $5.99/yd.

3. Fabrics R Us, San Jose, CA - I read a review on patternreview.com and expected this place to be the jackpot. Overall, there are a lot of fabrics, probably about 2000 sq ft, but it's pretty much polyester blends that you would find at JoAnns. If you like JoAnns, you'll love this place. Don't expect to find any silk blends here.

Butterick Pattern #: Sundress muslin

2007-10-09T22:41:00.000-04:00

I picked this pattern because it resembled an Ann Taylor dress I loved and didn't copy before it was ruined. I painstakingly adjusted the bust in the bodice multiple times until it fit my dress form perfectly -- only to find out it gapes on me. Not only is the garment wrong, but apparently, so is my dress form. It seems the bust circumference is right, but the high bust it not. Back to the drawing board.

So it's the end of summer now, so I'll probably put this away until next year. Aside from getting the gathering even, this pattern was pretty easy to make.

Fabric: medium weight cotton T-shirt fabric
Thread:
Pattern:
Equipment/Notions: clear elastic for gathering skirt
Time invested: 7-8 hours modifying the bust. Faster without alterations.

It's done and ready to mail!!

2007-09-09T23:23:00.000-04:00

It's done! My first gift. I am fairly pleased with it, too. It was supposed to have a matching pair of pants, but I accidentally sewed the CF of one leg to the CB of same leg. But I did manage to get the snaps on straight without puckering the fabric. I ordered the colored snaps from The Snap Source on the internet, size 14 in blue. I found the label at G Street Fabrics. Overall, I thought this project was pretty easy with a serger. I chose to hand sew the hems and the applique.

Baby jacket

2007-08-17T17:44:00.000-04:00

I am making this baby jacket for my cousin Sam's little girl. I made the newborn size, which is supposed to be 8 pounds, but I think it looks more like a 3-6 mo.

I sewed everything but the hems and the top stitching on the serger. Looking back, I would sew the facing seams with the sewing machine because you can't get a crisp corner without cutting across your serged edge. I hand sewed the hems because I wasn't sure how the hemming foot would handle a knit and the sleeves were too little for my free arm.

I started to use snap tape for the front buttons, but it looked out of place against the white knit, so I'm considering sewing snaps on individually by hand for a cleaner look.

Fabric: blue light weight cotton jersey; from Gail's
Thread: MaxiLock in serger needles; wooly nylon in upper/lower looper; embroidery thread for topstitching.
Pattern: McCalls 9407, view F
Equipment/Notions: serger, applique patch, weft interfacing; stretch needle; walking foot
Time invested: 3 hours

My sewing buddy

2007-07-19T21:31:00.000-04:00

She's not worth a flip using the rotary cutter, but she never lets me get lonely while I'm sewing. She curls up and snoozes in the sunbeam while I sew to my heart's content. She's only 6 months now, still a puppy. She tries to chew my fabric and the iron cord sometimes, but most of the time, she just likes to be around.

Millie (my dress form) now looks like me

2007-07-03T14:40:00.000-04:00

If I was going to get serious about this sewing thing, then I needed to modify my dress form to actually look like me. "Millie" was a clearance model from Fabulous Fit. It came with a spandex body suit and interchangeable pads, but I needed to add some major droop to the bust, some baby fat in the abdomen, and a lot of padding around the rib cage for it to actually fill out a garment the way I do.

I followed the instructions in the Taunton book, "Fitting your Figure." I started by adding batting around the rib cage until its circumference matched mine. Millie is thinner in the waist than I am from side to side, but she's wider from front to back -- so I matched the circumference and left it at that. I rolled the batting into strips and pinned the roll under the breast to make them look less perky (and sigh, more like mine). I also added some padding to the lower abdomen.

The next step was to drape the muslin. I highly recommend directional sewing on the princess seams. The left princess seam used directional sewing and the right did not. You can see where it lays wrong at the underside of the right breast. The left chest is better contoured and lays better. I added bias binding to the neck and arm hole edges, leaving one side seam open to stitch closed on the form.

Lessons learned:
1. Maybe facings would have looked better.
2. Bias binding on the arm holes is easier if you do it before you close the side seam.
3. Make sure the seam allowances are where they are supposed to be before another seam intersects them. My shoulder seams have a twist in them because the presser foot folded it in different directions at the neck edge and the shoulder edge.

Fabric: muslin cotton
Thread: all-purpose
Pattern: draped from instructions in "Fitting for your Figure", a Taunton book.
Equipment/Notions: tailor's chalk, bias tape
Time invested: 5 hours

Playing with a new serger

2007-06-20T17:47:00.000-04:00

This was my first project on my new serger. It is a BabyLock Eclipse SE. This pattern is Kwik Sew #3497 and it's made of a medium weight T-shirt knit. This was the first time I ever worked with knits. I recommend paying attention to directional stitching on the arm holes and along the neckline because it gets wavy when you sew against the grain.

Fabric: medium weight cotton T-shirt fabric
Thread: MaxiLock Blendables in Kiwi
Pattern: Kwik Sew #3497
Equipment/Notions: 1/4" seam allowances are much easier on a serger, suggest double-sided tape for finishing edges of neckline and armholes
Time invested: 2 hours

Lesson learned: don't melt the zipper teeth with the iron

2007-06-20T17:38:00.000-04:00

Some time later I attempted Vogue skirt pattern #7937. This skirt is a simple cut, but I initially made it too big and I kind of lost the lines taking the seams in. I tried to figure out how to insert a lining on my own, but the skirt was double vented in the back and it is harder than it looked. It was wearable, though until I realized I had melted the zipper teeth just enough to get the garment sewn before it got stuck. I never really got to wear the skirt.

Cotton Summer Skirt

2006-07-28T22:59:00.000-04:00

This skirt is a great pattern for any cotton. It has an invisible zipper up the side. It is lined with white batiste and is perfect for the hottest days of summer. I hemmed the back 1/2" longer than the front and it has a very slimming effect. Think I'll do that on all the skirts I make. I bought the fabric at Gail K's. I forgot to stay stitch the top of the skirt, so the waist is pretty wavy, but I were a shirt tucked out anyway.

Fabric: Soft cotton print fashion fabric, lining was batiste from DenverFabrics.com
Thread: All-purpose
Pattern: Copied from Ann Taylor Factory Outlet skirt
Equipment/Notions: 9" zipper, 3/4" twill tape
Time invested: About 2 hours

Vogue pattern #: Cape muslin

2006-03-20T22:33:00.000-05:00

I'll have to remember this pattern for a simple jacket. It fits like a short cape, but has a seam under the arm to keep the jacket fitting straight. The collar is much easier than a notched collar and this pattern could a really good one for pulling a look together. It probably needs horse hair braid at the bottom to make the bottom stiff and crisp.

Fabric: muslin
Thread: all purpose
Pattern: Vogue
Equipment/Notions: lining fabric
Time invested: 5 hours

My first attempt at a garment

2006-01-01T17:17:00.000-05:00

This was the first garment I ever made, Vogue pattern #7928. The fabric was a polyester suiting and the iron marked it up really bad and it was just too stiff in general. It ended up being too small, but overall, I was pleased with it.

The dress form is a duct tape dummy that I made of myself mounted on a wrapping paper roll, which is itself standing in a Christmas tree stand. I bought some black stretch spandex and covered it to make it a little more appealing.