Simplicity 2594

This top had some high expectations to meet. It was the first thing I've sewn with my new Bernina and the fabric was a special one I'd saved in my stash after picking it up at Britex Fabrics on a business trip to San Francisco.

I bought this pattern specifically for the green georgette fabric. It was printed in panels, so I was a little worried whether I would have enough fabric and whether I could balance the print. The pattern has a yoke that lays over the shoulder and the front and back pieces are attached above the chest and across the upper back.

Techniques used:
1. Fitting: I normally do a FBA, but the shirt already has 7" of ease and isn't particularly fitted in the chest. I cut out a size smaller to make it 5" of ease over my body measurements.
2. Cutting: Because the georgette can be slippery, I cut out the pattern pieces with a rotary cutter and mat and laid pattern paper on top to minimize the fabric sliding around.
3. Marking: I like to cut off the seam allowances of of my patterns so I can mark the seam lines easier. Georgette is too flimsy to use stiff chalk or pencils, so I scattered some powder chalk along the pattern edge and rubbed it off the pattern onto the georgette to mark the silouette of the pattern (you could use corn starch if you don't have powder chalk). I was happy to see that it makes a sharp line, but be sure to cut an exact seam allowance because the chalk will disappear once you start handling the garment. By the time I hemmed the garment, the chalk was gone and I couldn't see it at all and I hadn't cut an exact seam allowance.
4. Thread & Needle: I used a 70H Universal needle and Mettler cotton thread. You might want to use a walking foot and lower the presser foot pressure, too, if your machine allows the fabric to slide around a lot.
5. Facings: This pattern has a facing for the yoke, the back collar, and the split front. I found it challenging to get the split to lay down nicely where it joins the front of the garment. I would recommend thread tracing seam lines in that area to make sure that the seams join as accurately as possible. If the seam is twisted at all, it won't lay right. After sewing the facings along the neckline, be sure to clip the curves and then edge stitch the facings to the seam allowances to make the split lay nice and flat. I did not clip enough notches in the neckline seam allowance and so the points curl back. Also, I serged the edges of the facings and it makes a rough edge that is uncomfortable to wear. I suggest turning the facing's raw edge down and sewing with a straight stitch to make it more wearable.
6. Gathering: The back piece is gathered between two notches. I cut a piece of clear elastic the length of the notched area on the shorter piece (the yoke) and then stretched it as I sewed it into the back piece. It was easy and came out nice and even (see back picture).
7. Hemming: And this is where it went south. I tried out the new rolled hem foot on my machine and it just didn't work out. The fabric did not feed into the foot well where you sew across joined seam lines. Also, I stretched the fabric while sewing, so it has that wavy look. In hindsight, I probably should have done the hems before I closed the side seams so I could do them flat. It was virtually impossible to sew in the round without stretching the fabric out.

Comments on the pattern:
1. I think this pattern is really great in a georgette, but I would make it a size smaller than normal. Five inches of ease seemed about right when all was said and done.
2. I didn't find any drafting errors once I decided to work with the smaller size pattern, but the front split is a little low once you wear the garment. I had to be careful not flash people when I was leaning over. I'd close it up about 1" next time.
3. I'm definitely going to try the pattern again. It is great for summer tops and as a staple under cardigans or jackets. It also has a lot of potential if you look at Anthropologie.com for embellishment ideas. I might play with lace inserts or some hand embroidery next time.

Summary of lessons learned:
1. Do the rolled hems on sleeves and bottom before closing up the side seam.
2. Thread trace the seam allowances where the split front is joined for better accuracy and a flatter seam.
2. Clip the curves on the neckline facings before edgestitching the facings to the seam allowances to make the curve lie flatter.
3. Straight stitch the raw edge of the facings instead of serging them.
4. Might want to close the front split up about 1".